Second Time’s the Charm (Mostly): Sewing Simplicity S9539

This dress came with a mix of highlights, outtakes, and a healthy lesson in patience. This was my second time sewing Simplicity S9539, this time using Minerva’s Exclusive Timber Tiger viscose challis, and while I went in knowing what to expect, the pattern still asked for my full attention. It’s one of those makes that looks simple at first glance but really shines only after you put in the work to make it your own.

THE PATTERN:

This dress is Simplicity S9539, and this was my second time making it. On the surface, it looks straightforward, but in practice it’s a pattern that really benefits from customization. For this version, I adjusted the length of the skirt and the length and curve of the bodice to better suit my proportions.

I also made a few construction changes to improve wearability. I omitted the facing and finished the neckline with bias tape, skipped the cuffs in favor of elastic, and added a bell slip for better movement and coverage.

THE FIT:

Out of the envelope, the fit needs work. This pattern requires shortening and adjusting through the top to really come together. Even on the second go-round, it tested my patience.

Once the modifications were made, the silhouette worked much better, but this is definitely not a sew-and-go pattern. Expect to make fit changes if you want the best result.

THE INSTRUCTIONS:

The instructions are standard Simplicity fare. They’re clear enough to follow, but they don’t fully account for the level of fitting and tweaking most makers will likely need. Reading ahead and being comfortable making changes as you go is key with this one.

LIKES / DISLIKES:

Likes:

• The silhouette once the fit is dialed in

• How well the pattern works with a fluid fabric

• Minerva’s Exclusive Timber Tiger viscose challis, which drapes beautifully and is a joy to sew with

• A solid base pattern once you understand its needs

Dislikes:

• Requires multiple modifications to achieve a good fit

• Took longer than expected, even with prior experience

• Not ideal for beginners without fitting experience

MAKE IT AGAIN?:

Probably not! Twice is sufficient enough. Especially ince there are so many other wrap dress patterns out there and in my stash that I still need to sew up. But with the understanding that the hard work is already done, pattern cut makes it easy to grab. Now that I know what this pattern needs, I should adjust the pattern pieces to make it easier IF I even make it again.

I’d recommend it to makers who are comfortable adjusting patterns and want a project that rewards patience with a great finished garment.